Platform Hitch Bike Racks Features & Guide

Platform style hitch mounted bike racks come in many different varieties with different feature sets. These features are usually listed on product pages, but sometimes compatibility and other considerations may be hidden in the instruction sheet. Here, we’ll help to break down the features you may come across and help determine compatibility with your bike and your vehicle. This is not intended to review or recommend specific racks, but to help decipher feature sets so you can determine what you may need to look for. 

Hitch compatibility

First, let’s look at hitch size. Most racks are going to be sold as either 1 ¼” specific, 2” specific, or 1 ¼” with a 2” adapter. Sometimes the 2” adapter is available separately, but other times an adapter is not recommended and the manufacturer makes the rack only for one specific hitch size. 

If you have a 1 ¼” hitch receiver, you may need to look closely at stinger measurements and compare them to your hitch receiver, particularly for Class I hitches. Similarly, larger 2.5” hitch receivers may not always work or be recommended for use due to the length of the hitch pin and step-down adapters limiting the effectiveness of anti-wobble devices. We’ll talk more about weight later on, but the tongue weight that your vehicle and hitch are rated for needs to be sufficient to carry the rack and bikes you intend to load. Manufacturers have datasheets available from product or support pages with the critical measurements to confirm compatibility and clearances.

Some other special considerations need to be made for RV’s and vehicles that need a hitch extension. Some large vans and vehicles with rear mounted spare tires may need a hitch extension in order for the rack or handlebars to clear the back of the vehicle. Not all racks are recommended for use with an extension, so check the details carefully. RV’s also put high stress on racks, so check the rack’s details for confirmation. Yakima says “A vehicle is an RV if the horizontal distance from the rear axle to the hitch pin hole, tow ball, or back of rear bumper (if no hitch receiver or tow ball is present) is 72" or greater.” Putting a rack on a trailer causes similar problems, and this should only be done if the rack explicitly says it is approved for use on a trailer. If a rack is compatible with an extension, RV, or trailer, it generally lowers the weight capacity when it is used in such a way.

Bike compatibility

Bike compatibility can get even more complicated than hitch compatibility, so we’ll break it down into smaller sections.

Number of bikes

Most platform hitch racks carry 2 bikes, but there are also some 1, 3, and 4 bike options out there. If you need to carry more than this, some models have add-ons available separately that add the ability to carry 1 or 2 more bikes. These extensions are not available for every model, but the product pages should detail which racks they are compatible with. Often the 1 ¼” version cannot accept an add-on, while the 2” version can. Add-ons increase the weight of the overall rack, while often decreasing the weight capacity per bike, even if the overall weight capacity is a higher number. 

Weight per bike

Platform hitch racks have quite varying weight capacities. As the weight capacities increase, so too does the weight of the rack. E-bikes have especially prompted manufacturers to increase weight capacities as they gain popularity. Don’t overload your rack; check your e-bike’s weight carefully and remove the battery if you need to trim some pounds. Note that any accessories added to the bike increase weight, and rack add-ons to carry more bikes typically decrease a rack’s weight capacity per bike.

Tire/wheel size

Bike wheels and tires come in many different sizes, so racks need to be versatile in order to carry most bikes out there. However, most racks have some limitations. Check that the wheel sizes you intend to carry are compatible; some platform racks don’t play nice with kids bikes that have 12, 16, or even 20” wheels. On the other end, some older racks can have problems with large diameter 29” wheels and tires. Tire width is a consideration also. Road bikes should be fine, but if you have tires that are 3, 4, or 5" wide, the rack will need to be specially designed to handle them.

Fenders and racks

Not all platform hitch racks work well with bikes that have fenders and cargo racks. The product detail page should call out whether the rack works with fenders or not, and in the next section we’ll talk about bike contact which may help you determine fender compatibility just by looking at the rack. If your bike has cargo carrying racks, you will need to consider how the bike is held to make sure your racks won’t be a problem. Rear racks are not usually a concern, but front racks can be. 

Bike contact and carrying methods

There are 4 main styles of platform bike racks when it comes to carrying methods. There is some variety within each style, but I’ll try to list the benefits and drawbacks of each.

Front wheel hook

The most common platform style rack uses a hook that holds the front wheel near the fork crown, and often a single wheel strap on the rear wheel. The front hook needs to be quite tight since it is crucial to holding the bike down. These typically do not work with front racks and fenders. The hook needs to get very close to the fork crown. These are sometimes marketed as “no contact” racks, but you should expect the hook to contact either your front brake caliper or your fork while in use. My fat bike fork has scuffs from hook contact, and I do not like to use a front wheel hook style rack with a carbon fork. If you position the hook further away from the fork crown, you risk the bike not being held securely; it can bounce around quite a bit while driving, and you don’t want your bike to suddenly disappear from your rear view mirror. There are a select few front wheel hook style racks that either lock the angle of the arm or otherwise use a strap to attach to the front wheel that can alleviate both the fender and fork crown contact issues (check out the RockyMounts HighNoon FC and GigaWatt). The plus side of front wheel hook racks is that they are typically quick and easy to load bikes onto, but many allow the bikes to have some wobble. 

Top tube hook

The next style uses a hook that comes down onto the top tube. These usually have wheel straps for both the front and rear wheels to contain the bike, in which case the hook is largely to keep the bike from tipping over. These are often quite stable as far as bike wobble goes, but it can take some careful adjustment of the wheel trays and the hooks to make the bikes fit next to each other since the hooks can be on the same upright mast. This style of rack contacts the frame by definition, so use caution if you are concerned about carbon fiber or other scuffs. 

Double tire only

These racks are somewhat newer and more niche, but we’re seeing more and more of them being released. These racks have arms that come up to contact the front and rear tires only, so no frame contact is made. Fenders can be a problem, but sometimes there are fender kits available to allow them to work anyway. The bikes are secure and quite easy to load, but they allow for a fair bit of bike wobble. Careful arrangement of handlebars and saddles is critical. 

Frame clamps & straps

These are racks that are made primarily with e-bikes in mind, as the need has increased for racks that can fit any bicycle, regardless of frame design or shape. These racks either have a clamp or a strap that can typically be fastened to any secure part of the bike, not just the top tube. Step thru bikes or those with large batteries in the down tube or seat tube should be able to find an attachment spot somewhere. These racks have wheel straps for the front and rear wheels, and usually feature a continuous tray to wheel the bike across. Initial set up can take some practice, but if weight capacity and versatility are priorities, these racks may be the top choice. Racks and fenders are typically not a problem, and the bikes are held without too much wobble. 

Ease of use and additional features

Now that we have compatibility out of the way, let’s take a look at some other features and key areas of consideration.

Rack install

Installing the rack may seem like it should be pretty straightforward, and it usually is, but there are a few features to look for. If you intend to install the rack and let it live on your car, this may not be a concern, but if you only install the rack when you need it, it helps if it is not prohibitively heavy and cumbersome. 

The first consideration is the weight of the rack. Some models are designed to be lightweight, typically made using more aluminum than steel, at the expense of weight capacity. Some other racks just accept that they are heavy and include wheels to help get them around. 

Next is installing the rack itself. Most basic racks have a simple threaded hitch pin that keeps the rack from ejecting as well as reduces wobble, which requires an appropriately sized wrench to install. As you move up in price, more sophisticated and tool-free anti-wobble devices are used, typically a handle with a threaded rod with a wedge. It can be a little tricky to line up the hole in the stinger of the rack with the hole in the hitch receiver, so some racks have some spring loaded pieces to make this a little easier. You can also make a mark on the top of the stinger where it meets the hitch receiver so it's easier to see when you’re in the right spot. 

Bike install

Bike install varies by the carrying method, but there are a handful of things that will need to be considered regardless of the rack type. 

You probably don’t want the bikes to contact or bang into each other. Handlebars, saddles, and sometimes cargo racks can all fight for the same real estate. Some more premium models have “stadium” style spines and tray layouts, so the bikes get higher the further away from the vehicle they are - also increasing ground clearance. Others have adjustable wheel cups, which can sometimes be somewhat finicky if you’re changing bikes often. Most mid-range racks at least have sliding adjustable trays, allowing you to position the bikes forward and backward or left and right to gain handlebar clearance. Sometimes, you might need to resort to lowering or removing a saddle so it doesn’t make contact. Remember that as you drive and the bikes wobble, they have a greater chance of coming into contact with each other, so ensure there is adequate clearance!

If you’re loading bikes that are especially heavy or difficult to lift into place, you may want to consider racks that feature loading ramps and continuous trays. This will allow the bike to be rolled up from the side instead of lifted. 

Hatch access

This may seem like a feature that is easy to skip over, but if you use your trunk or rear hatch regularly, it can be pretty annoying if your rack is fighting you instead of helping you. Almost all racks have some sort of folding and tilting feature. Older racks and basic models often have a pin or handle somewhere near this pivot point. If bikes are loaded, this can be tough to access, so some newer and more premium models have remote handles or foot operated levers that make it easier to tilt the rack, whether it's loaded with bikes or not! 

Other options include swing-away models or swing-away accessories. These rotate the entire platform of bikes off to the side, allowing complete and unobstructed hatch access. Note that some large cargo vans might be wider than these swing-away racks are designed for, and they might not swing completely out of the way.

Locks

Nobody wants to see their bikes or their rack disappear, so most racks have some sort of locking options. You will want to consider how the rack might be locked to the hitch receiver, as well as how the bikes can be locked to the rack. Any of these locks can be overcome if somebody really wants your stuff, but they can help keep an opportunist from walking off with your gear. Sometimes locks are included with the rack, and if not, there should be locking hitch pins and accessory cables available separately. 

Lights and license plates

Hitch mounted bike racks are often easier to use and access compared to roof racks, but they will inevitably obstruct your tail lights and license plate, which could result in a traffic ticket. Whether you get pulled over or not, it’s not great when other road users can’t see your tail lights to be able to tell when your brake lights and turn signals illuminate. Few racks include lights, but more and more are offering lights as an aftermarket accessory, along with license plate holders. I’m a big fan of utilizing aftermarket lights with hitch racks, and even made a DIY light bar a few years ago, but this Curt stick-on light kit works well by itself. 

Cost

Finally, cost. Hitch bike racks are expensive, and platform racks usually command a higher price than mast or hanging style racks from the same company. Your hitch and bike compatibility will dictate choice to some extent, but many of the security and ease of use features can be foregone for a lower cost option. We carry new options from a range of brands such as Thule, Yakima, and Kuat, as well as Used and Return/open box options to try to ease the hit to your wallet. 

If you have any questions about which rack will work best for you, don’t hesitate to contact us!